Tuesday, March 14, 2017

“If the stones could speak, might say how they were tweaked..”


There is always something intriguingly beautiful about taming a rough element such as granite to create something extraordinary that will steal the naked eyes of the people with one glance upon them. This is a story which runs beyond the ordinary imagination and master-craftsmanship. Gal Viharaya (Uththararamaya) was built in 12th century by King Parakramabhahu. It is a perfect resemblance to the power that lied within the Polonnaruwa craftsmen in their remarkable talent in mellowing and carving rough granite, thus converting the tough rock into a peaceful sanctuary.  
“There sprang up an eternal love on the spur of the moment. It is the heartthrob.  If it was the flow of the sculptor's heart then, since then, it has been the stream that washes and cleanses the minds and the hearts of all those who stand in front of it. Stand, kneel or sit in front of the great statues. The sweeping serenity of the statues would breeze-open your heart and inflame it with eternal love.” These were the very same words of Lieutenant Mitchell Henry Fagan when he encountered face to face to a colossal statue gazing down at him from the foliage. Gal viharaya consists of 2 seating Buddha statues, one standing statue and one statue of Lord Buddha passing away (Parinirvana Manchakaya).
This northern site of the citadel at the early medieval city of Polonnaruwa is a place which balances the blazing sun with refreshing winds coming from the promontory Parakrama Samudrya. This perfect balance gives a nourishing energy to your body before cleansing your soul. The 1st statue you come across is the seating Buddha in meditation and it carries the power to turn your surroundings into a blur. Peacefully closed eyes, expressionless face, lotus which he is seated on and the carvings of “vimana” with 4 other small Buddha statues around the statue adds more serene to the creation.
While all the other statues are carved out, there is the 2nd statue which is carved inside. This statue is believed to represent Lord Buddha’s visit to heaven called “Thusitha” to preach to his mother. The craftsman has carved two deities on the side of the statue in order to signify this moment. The rumor is that the statue was painted with pure gold back in the days but treasure hunters have burnt logos on the statue and have melted off the gold.
Every statue has a significant meaning which was perfectly unveiled to the outer world even after centuries. With its half eyes closed, arms folded yet the contours of the rock flowing over the face dreamily betrays a sorrowful expression. Suddenly a small glimpse of a smile on the lips shows the peaceful yet contented expression. This symbolizes the stage of supreme enlightened, the omniscient which transcend all sorrows. This statue itself became a controversial topic among lots of scholars where some believed that this is Ananda thero who is grieving over his master, one of the disciples of Lord Buddha. However elongated ears of the statue, the rightward curled clusters of hair and the padmasana (double lotus pedestal) were believed to be unquestionable signed to conclude that this indeed is the statue of Lord Buddha. One can keep looking at these statues as it triggers a sudden happiness which goes beyond the righteousness of a human mind.

The last statue is the statue of Lord Buddha’s Parinirvana (Final extinction, rather than death it is breaking the cycle of death and rebirth, following the life in supreme enlightenment). The details of the statue are beyond measurable. The craftsman carved the statue in a way which an ear lid is falling along the body and one foot slightly behind the other (The toes are not positioned equally on the feet) in order to symbolize the death, rather than resting. This statue embeds the brevity of human life for anyone who carefully observes it. The emotionless face, detailed pleats of the robe and the extraordinary carvings of the pillow, being slightly depressed due to the weight of the head are shout outs to the artistry of this masterpiece. Whether you are in the 12th century or the 21st century, this ultimate emblem of Polonnaruwa kingdom resembles the true essence of life and the bitterness of death guiding you towards the light of purifying your mind and soul. 

No comments:

Post a Comment