‘What happened at Kandy probably will not stay in Kandy!’

If you find relaxing on a beach is becoming a bit too slow paced and are looking for a bit of immersion of cold breeze where the brownish environment is substituted by the greenish environment, then Kandy is the ideal place to visit.  Located in between multiple mountain ranges including Hanthana Mountain range and Knuckles Mountain range and protected with Mahavili River, gave enough reasons to King Sena Sammatha Wickramabhahu (1473-1511) to establish his kingdom in this magnificent place of the country. When you are greeted by a soft rain in the most unpredictable moments during the journey, when you stop travelling for a moment in order to experience the greenery of the environment which will make you forget all your problems of yesterday for a moment, when you had to battle with the unforgiving, sharp and stubborn silver mist and mellows you out and say ‘aaw this is life!” under your breath, that’s when you realize that you reached to Kandy.   

On its way to this beautiful city, the Kadugannawe area has one of the breathtaking views in the whole country. This mesmerising vista must have been the same reason why it took a lot of years for the British army to capture the kingdom, where it made them forget all the things in mind about the invasion and fall in love with its beauty instantly.  If you were able to elude from this hypnotism which caused by the beauty of that view and continued your journey along the road, you will find the famous entrance to the city; Kadugannawe tunnel. Kadugannawa tunnel is made by the British in order to link Kandy with other parts of the country. It is said that the British chose to build this short tunnel rather than just blasting the rock, as a form of psychological warfare. According to a prophecy, the Kandyan Kingdom wouldn’t fall until the mountains were tunnelled. However this grand entrance was able to give a small glimpse about the prodigious city they are about to enter.

Peradeniya Botanical garden

The route is all about defining the Kandy city. While Kadugannawa tunnel reflects the dynamism of the city, the Peradeniya Botanical garden reflects the amiability of the city. The origins of the Botanic Gardens date as far back as 1371 when King Wickramabahu III ascended the throne and kept the court at Peradeniya near the Mahaweli River. This was followed by King Kirti Sri and King Rajadhi Rajasinghe. A temple was built on this location by King Wimala Dharma, but it was destroyed by the British when they were given control over the Kingdom of Kandy. 

Thereafter, the groundwork for a botanical garden was formed by Alexandar Moon in 1821. He used the garden for coffee and cinnamon plants. The Botanical Garden at Peradeniya was formally established in 1843 with plants brought from Kew Garden, Slave Island, Colombo and the Kalutara Garden in Kaluthara. The Royal Botanic Garden, Peradeniya was made more independent and expanded under George Gardner as superintendent in 1844. There are avenues in the River Drive such as Cook's Pine Avenue, Palmyra Palm Avenue, Double Coconut Avenue, Cabbage Avenue, and Royal Palm Avenue. The classical Avenue of Palms is in this Garden. One item with a significant history is the Cannonball Tree planted by King George V of the United Kingdom and Queen Mary in 1901. It is often laden with fruit, which is thought to resemble cannonballs.

During World War II, the Botanical Garden was used by Lord Louis Mountbatten, the supreme commander of the allied forces in the South Asia, as the headquarters of the South East Asia Command. This is a place where it contains 4000 species of plants throughout an area of 147 acres. Being the centre of limelight results this place to attract more than 2 million visitors annually.

Temple of Tooth relic

Our next stop is the very core heart of the Kandy city; the temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalanda Maligawa). It is not just a temple. This is considered to be the most sacred place in Sri Lanka. The temple is built within the royal palace complex, as the relic symbolised the governance of Sri Lanka in ancient times. Large pillars of the palace, gold plated roof over the temple and the vibrant greenery of the garden balances the mystique aura within the temple. The city declared as a world heritage city by UNESCO in part due to the temple. Monks of the two chapters of Malwatte and Asgiriya conduct daily ritual worship in the inner chamber of the temple, in annual rotation. They conduct these services three times a day: at dawn, at noon and in the evening. On Wednesdays, there is a symbolic bathing of the Sacred Relic with an herbal preparation made from scented water and flagrant flowers, called Nanumura Mangallaya. This holy water is believed to contain healing powers and is distributed among those present.

Kandy Esala Perahara

July and August are 2 months filled with special events; for Canadians, its Canada day. For French, it’s Bastille Day and for Americans and Indians, it’s their independence day. However, for Kandians in Sri Lanka, it’s Perahara time. On this time of year, something unique happens during the nighttime. The usually busy streets during the daytime become restricted during the nighttime. The ordinary buildings during the daytime get decorated with colourful lights during the nighttime. Take a deep breath. You will feel a sweet aroma of incense sticks mixed with burnt oil. This is a sign which gives you a hint of what’s about to happen on these streets.

 The Esala Perahera in Kandy is one of the oldest and grandest of all Buddhist festivals in Sri Lanka, featuring dancers, jugglers, musicians, fire-breathers, and lavishly decorated elephants. This is held in Esala (July or August) which is the month that is believed to commemorate the first teaching given by the Buddha after he attained enlightenment. The Kandy Esala Perahara lasts for ten days while various festivities can be witnessed right throughout. The Sinhalese term ‘Perahera’ means a parade of musicians, dancers, singers, acrobats and various other performers accompanied by a large number of caparisoned Tuskers and Elephants parading the streets in celebration of a religious event.

The Esala Perahera in Kandy is celebrated to honour the Sacred Tooth Relic and the four ‘guardian’ Gods Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Goddess Pattini. It is followed in order by those of the Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini ‘Devales’ (Temples dedicated to these Gods) which are situated in the vicinity of the Temple of the Tooth. This is a celebration which goes beyond the ordinary. Every item itself individually adds a unique value and a colour to the perhaps.

Kandy view point

Have you ever looked up at the sky and wondered “If I had a chance to fly over these stars and look at them from above? To look at them like the great creator looks at these tiny starts and galaxies from above?”  Well, you can make this dream a reality in the Kandy view point.  If you want to get a good panoramic view of the Kandy city you can go on top of the Rajapihilla Mawatha where you can fulfil that fantasy. Grab a glass of wine and if you can make there during the sunset, with its cold breeze, magnificent view of the city, greenery and the way the city turns dark with the dusk will make you fall in love with this place at just a simple glimpse of it.

“If the stones could speak, might say how they were tweaked..”

There is always something intriguingly beautiful about taming a rough element such as granite to create something extraordinary that will steal the naked eyes of the people with one glance upon them. This is a story which runs beyond the ordinary imagination and master-craftsmanship. Gal Viharaya (Uththararamaya) was built in 12^th century by King Parakramabhahu. It is a perfect resemblance to the power that lied within the Polonnaruwa craftsmen in their remarkable talent in mellowing and carving rough granite, thus converting the tough rock into a peaceful sanctuary.  

“There sprang up an eternal love on the spur of the moment. It is the heartthrob.  If it was the flow of the sculptor's heart then, since then, it has been the stream that washes and cleanses the minds and the hearts of all those who stand in front of it. Stand, kneel or sit in front of the great statues. The sweeping serenity of the statues would breeze-open your heart and inflame it with eternal love.” These were the very same words of Lieutenant Mitchell Henry Fagan when he encountered face to face to a colossal statue gazing down at him from the foliage. Gal viharaya consists of 2 seating Buddha statues, one standing statue and one statue of Lord Buddha passing away (Parinirvana Manchakaya).

This northern site of the citadel at the early medieval city of Polonnaruwa is a place which balances the blazing sun with refreshing winds coming from the promontory Parakrama Samudrya. This perfect balance gives a nourishing energy to your body before cleansing your soul. The 1^st statue you come across is the seating Buddha in meditation and it carries the power to turn your surroundings into a blur. Peacefully closed eyes, expressionless face, lotus which he is seated on and the carvings of “vimana” with 4 other small Buddha statues around the statue adds more serene to the creation.

While all the other statues are carved out, there is the 2^nd statue which is carved inside. This statue is believed to represent Lord Buddha’s visit to heaven called “Thusitha” to preach to his mother. The craftsman has carved two deities on the side of the statue in order to signify this moment. The rumor is that the statue was painted with pure gold back in the days but treasure hunters have burnt logos on the statue and have melted off the gold.

Every statue has a significant meaning which was perfectly unveiled to the outer world even after centuries. With its half eyes closed, arms folded yet the contours of the rock flowing over the face dreamily betrays a sorrowful expression. Suddenly a small glimpse of a smile on the lips shows the peaceful yet contented expression. This symbolizes the stage of supreme enlightened, the omniscient which transcend all sorrows. This statue itself became a controversial topic among lots of scholars where some believed that this is Ananda thero who is grieving over his master, one of the disciples of Lord Buddha. However elongated ears of the statue, the rightward curled clusters of hair and the padmasana (double lotus pedestal) were believed to be unquestionable signed to conclude that this indeed is the statue of Lord Buddha. One can keep looking at these statues as it triggers a sudden happiness which goes beyond the righteousness of a human mind.

The last statue is the statue of Lord Buddha’s Parinirvana (Final extinction, rather than death it is breaking the cycle of death and rebirth, following the life in supreme enlightenment). The details of the statue are beyond measurable. The craftsman carved the statue in a way which an ear lid is falling along the body and one foot slightly behind the other (The toes are not positioned equally on the feet) in order to symbolize the death, rather than resting. This statue embeds the brevity of human life for anyone who carefully observes it. The emotionless face, detailed pleats of the robe and the extraordinary carvings of the pillow, being slightly depressed due to the weight of the head are shout outs to the artistry of this masterpiece. Whether you are in the 12^th century or the 21^st century, this ultimate emblem of Polonnaruwa kingdom resembles the true essence of life and the bitterness of death guiding you towards the light of purifying your mind and soul. 

"Beach to Preach Me..."

There is no good feeling than taking a small nap in a hammock while listening to the calm rhythmic sound of the waves crashing right next to you. A pinch of salt mixed with the sensational evening breeze adds some flavour and aroma to your magical evening. The soft sun is just strong enough to trigger a reminder of how much Mother Nature embraces you with her love. Let your toes touch down the soft and indulgent sand that spreads far ahead into the ocean and surreal enough it will keep you motionless and be trapped in its beauty. There is a special name for this kingdom of solitude that’s filled with tranquil nature. It derives from the Sinhalese word “onne watuna”, which translates into “there it fell”, subsequently it became “Unawatuna”. Alas! The place where god created to give a glimpse of heaven to the mortals.  

Located 5km south from Galle, this beach has become one of the most significant beaches in Sri Lanka with its golden sand with a coral reef. Safe swimming, wreck and reef diving and surf points are some of the many attractions this beach offers. Once you visit, you will immediately realise how one becomes a dreamer of such a place. The 1 km wide semi-circle beach makes the ocean the only way of escaping. The lush graven coconut palm trees filter the scorching sun and the wind while turning it into a soothing whistle. As the final element of hypnotism, you can spot the shining Buddhist stupa sitting majestically on a green hill. This epitome of Buddhist architecture lies as if it is guarding the whole surfers while windsurfing.  The reef, on the other hand, is one of the extraordinary creations of Mother Nature.

Even after you’ve had your time with all the scuba diving, surfing and swimming, a unique place called Rumassala; a place which described in Ramayanaya come to your rescue. A rocky outcrop which stands tall behind the village makes you a prisoner of your own intellectual dilemma. Rumassala is home to a large collection of medicinal herbs which is rare to be found in Sri Lanka. It is mentioned in the Epic Ramayanaya that Lord Hanuman, king of the non-human, vanara tribe was sent by Lord Rama to Himalaya to fetch medicinal herbs to save his brother Lakshman. As Lord Hanuman failed to identify the plant he ended up bringing an entire hill ripped off to Sri Lanka. He chopped off a chunk of land along the way. Part of it became Ritigala and the other became Rumassala. With its enchanting yet flabbergasted view of Siri Padaya on top adds more value to this place. The sea bordering Rumassala has the Nona Vista reef, sheltering one of the best-preserved coral of the island.

Have you ever seen a turtle stepping his first steps? This is one of the most beautiful incidents this place offer to its lovers. It is pretty common to catch glimpses of sea turtles choosing this blessed beach to lay eggs having the faith that it will do the best to its kids. It is one of the most extraordinary feelings which one can experience in his or her lifetime to see a baby turtle crawling to its natural habitat starting a new phase of its life. Moreover, the Habaraduwa Turtle Hatchery is located about 3kms south of Unawatuna. It is a fine example of going that extra mile to save these magnificent species.

There is a dark side of this place which is left unsaid. Galle seaport used to be the first landing seaport of the Arabs, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English. Due to this reason, this beach has become a key destination for the wreck divers. Within 20-30 minutes away are Lord Nelson, a wreck of a cargo ship that is about ten years old and Rangoon, a British steamer sunken about 100 years ago. This is an ideal place for anyone who wants to be lost in time. All these artefacts and the splendid coral reef adds more colour to the usual background that attracts more and more divers and snorkelers.

When you are just about to feel that you have seen it all, you can spot another place that resembles the religious significance of this place. Among its rocky environment and a blush of greenery is the Yatagala Rajamaha Viharaya that stands tall in Unawatuna-Hinatigala road. Its legacy for over more than 2300 years and the eye-catching murals over the walls makes anyone mesmerise. The 9 meter long Buddha statue also depicts the master craftsmanship of the ancient Sri Lankans.

It is a beach, a weekend getaway, somewhere that can be an island of solitude and much more. With its emerald drops of Unawatuna, it is indeed a place where you must visit. This is a fine resemblance of all the surprises that can be seen within 1 Km. This is indeed a place which will bless not only your mind but also your soul too.

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Not "Just" Another Evening...

Colombo city at 6.45 pm on a Sunday

Out of the blue, I shook my head and opened my window just to take a glimpse of what is outside. It was the perfect moment. The sun has just left the sky making it a vivid painting. Just beneath the never-ending horizon, I saw a dull puff of smoke freed to the sky, abandoning its factory. All I could think was all the moments this place has endured. People change. We find new things and we tend to move on with our life. But this place remains the same. The sun will rise again to paint a vivid scene showing-off its artistry. The "Colomthota" will remain as it is, but how many days will it take for us to run blindly behind the different things in life? Yes, I have reached my destination, Colombo.